Mighty Fine Wine

AHA! BAJA!

It’s time to break out the full-body wetsuit. The ocean water temp is cooling and the best surf conditions are heating up, due to the light/moderate offshore winds, which blow smack into the face of a wave, creating its peak.

What, you may wonder does this have to do with wine? Well, while it’s cooling off here, south of the border it’s heating up in the wine region of Baja. There’s some tasty vino to be discovered, some cuisine that will knock your wetsuit booties off (not a fish taco in sight), art that will arouse your senses; along with beaches, valleys, surf, restaurants and the welcoming warmth of passionate people pursuing their dreams of winemaking.

Once you savor the juicy, rich wines of the Baja region, you’ll find yourself exclaiming:

“Yo quiero mas Baja wine!”

Or, more specifically, the wines of the Valle de Guadalupe (Guadalupe Valley). The location is just about a half hour’s drive northeast of Ensenada (where most of the lodging choices are located). As you drive along Highway 3 "Ruta de Vino," the road that connects Tecate with the coastline, wine may not immediately come to mind. With a name like Tecate, doesn’t that mean beer? Well, mas o menos, but now with the influx of winemakers from Italy, Spain, France, Switzerland, California and South America, as well as the home-town Mexican winemakers, this once sleepy ag area is poised to break out as the most exciting extension of the famed California Wine Trail.

Why here?

Let’s start with the terrain: Hills and rocky soils, which equal good drainage. Then there’s the heat of the day, refreshed by the cool nights and the effect of the ocean breezes (think California's Carneros region with San Pablo Bay, or Santa Rita Hills, with the Pacific Ocean’s proximity; or Temecula Hills in SoCal, with the crack in the mountains, that neatly separates it from the beaches in North County, San Diego, allowing the ocean air to waft across its vineyard landscape).

The most famous vineyards of Baja are located in the Guadalupe Valley and surrounding areas. Some of these areas have been planted since the late 1600’s. There are thousands of acres of vineyards that boast almost every conceivable grape variety: Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chasselas, Chardonnay, Malbec, Nebbiolo, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo, Palomino (the famous grape that makes Sherry), Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Cabernet Franc, Carignan, Garnacha (Grenache), Viognier and Zinfandel. Plus some of the ancient grapes such as Mision and Rosa de Peru.

Historically, the Spanish arrived in the form of Cortez and his gang, in the mid
1500’s, bringing their precious vine cuttings with them. Even then, there were ancient, native varietals growing, such as the Mision and Rosa de Peru. The King of Spain was a bit nervous when he heard about the size of the "new Spain." He worried about competition from these wines. The King ordered all of the grapevines and olive trees removed from mainland Mexico. But, Baja was so far away, they escaped this pillage. When the Spaniards eventually established the first missions, a bit later, the Mission Fathers “encouraged” the local population to tear out their native varieties and plant the old world grapes, to create wine for the church. This bounty was then used as currency for trade. While the wines were trade-able, they didn’t turn out to be especially drink-able, which is probably why cerveza and tequila became the beverages of choice and fame.

Later, the ex-pat Russians, having been persecuted in their own country, emigrated into the area and established vineyards. Well, why not? The first recorded winery, in history, was located in Georgia, Russia. As you can see, the Valle de Guadalupe has always had international pull.

Until recently, few Mexican citizens were drinking the local wines, it just wasn’t “cool.” But in the late 1980’s a new crop of winemakers began to get noticed on the scene, reviving ancient vineyards, planting new vines and setting off a new wine revolution! Now, in the famed restaurants of Mexico City, the wines of Mexico are ordered with pride. The once hugely popular French wines on the wine list are, well, sitting there, on the wine list.

Today, Mexican wines are winning medals worldwide, in blind tastings, and the passion of the locals and the newcomers to this stomping grounds is palatable and a treat to the palate!

Several of the wineries are especially welcoming to women travelers and the inns in the valley (La Villa de la Valle) will create special itineraries taking into account not only the wines of the region, but the art, culture and extraordinary food. In the valley, you'll need to have a meal at Laja. You'll traverse over some rough and ready roads, but when you arrive at the door, suddenly there's lavender, fresh herbs and a frequently changing menu, reflecting the seasons. Either before you enter the valley, or on your way home, make a date to stop in Tijuana and savor the creativity and imagination of Javier Plasencia, chef owner of several restaurants. His most famous is, Villa Saverios. A spectacular setting for a meal made of local, organic ingredients, with flavors and an artist's touch, that have these words to describe them: ooohh....ahhhh...mmmm....more, please. And, now, Javier has opened "Romesco," in Bonita, easily gotten to from San Diego and all the cities in North County. He calls his cuisine "Baja Med."

Some standouts in the winery department are:

Fernando Valmar, who has an urban winery in downtown Ensenada. His humor, passion for his wines and genuine optimism make a visit there a treat. His wines have finesse and style. The red wines are winning awards, worldwide.

Hans Backhoff, international award-winning winemaker and partner in Monte Xanic (Mohn-tay Shan-neek), is experimenting with small bottlings of Malbec and Petite Sirah. His rose is legendary! His wines range from Bordeaux blends to a gem known as Vina Cristal, which is 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. There's also a semi-late-harvest Chenin Blanc (the famed white grape of the Loire Valley, in France), that here becomes a nectar to be enjoyed on its own or with aged cheese and fruit-sauced chicken. The name, Monte Xanic, comes from the fact that when Hans first saw the vineyard area, it was covered in flowers, just after a spring rain. The words are a combination of Indian and Spanish meaning, “first flower that blooms after the rain.” Sigh….

Fernando Favela, partner of another award-winning winery, Chateau Camou is just next door, so to speak. This winery is also state-of-the art and steeped in the personality of Bordeaux, as the winemaker, Victor Torres, studied in Bordeaux and the winery has been consulted by the famed Michel Rolland (dubbed the flying winemaker). The wines rival the French juice and range from classic Bordeaux blends, to a prized Zinfandel from ancient vines. This Zin results in a thrilling taste, akin to Port.

Myrna Liceaga Campos carries on the legend of her late husband, Eduardo at Liceaga, where Merlot is a standout. Their location in the cooler areas of the Guadalupe Valley, afford more hang time for the grapes, which produce an especially rich flavor, which shows itself in in both their Chenin Blanc and Merlot. The wines are made to drink, now. And, they are the only makers of Grappa in Mexico, with an extraordinaryily beautiful Grappa-making machine, imported from Italy.

Vinisterra has just completed an architecturally exciting winery and cave where you'll be treated to wines made with the sensibility of a Swiss winemaker with a passion for the region.

Antonio Badan, another winemaker of Swiss ancestry (and by day, a scientist who studies the world's oceans, and as an added attraction, has a biting and intelligent sense of humor) is the only guy making wine from Chasselas. An aromatic white wine that calls Switzerland its home....except it's found its true expression in the warmth and seabreezes that caress this valley.

Then there are the extraordinary wines and vision of the Renaissance man, Hugo D'Acosta, founder and winemaker of Casa de Piedra and the new Paralelo, featuring his own special blends of local red and white grapes, creating lush wines that reflect the firm identity of the region. His blends are the stuff that dreams are made of. His passion is also to assist local winegrowers by teaching them how to make wine from their own vineyards, thereby saving these vines of ancient grape varieties, instead of bowing to the pressures of ripping them out to plant the "international" varieties. Additionally, Hugo started a school curriculum to train students in the business of wine and olive oil creation, to keep the brain trust at home. This maverick, visionary guy, along with his wife Gloria, are movers and shakers in this wine region, with ideas and the energy to make a difference. And, as a generous consultant to new vineyard owners, Hugo finds the "magic" in each section of their soil, to coax out the personality of the vine and ultimately, its fruit.

Camilo Magoni, is originally from the Veneto, Italy. However, for over 35 years he has been creating the wines at L.A. Cetto and its exclusive Don Luis label. This winery is boisterous, entertaining and educational. Magone, a Master Winemaker and historian of the valley and an edgy experimenter with many grape varietals, has a passion and energy, that is unstoppable and wildly charming. The Don Luis label concentrates on limited production and reserve wines. The Viognier is a standout, along with the Reserva Cabernet Sauvigon and for a real taste treat, try the Reserva Nebbiolo.

And, there is extraordinary, experimental work coming from many other winemakers who are testing the soils for the grape varietal, that will be the breakout wine that may define the region. More about each of them in later posts.

Notably, there's a cluster of women winemakers who've joined together to create a cooperative, making artisanal wines from a selection of vineyards, in very small but elite quanitities.

While you may decide to journey to Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe now, as Indian Summer and the pre-holiday weeks are upon us, there is another time of year that bears considering. In the harvest season beginning in August, there is a traditional celebration of the event called, The Fiestas de las Vendimias (Wine Harvest Festival). This three week endeavor combines local culture, street fairs, music, art, wine education, meals of “antijitos” (tapas-style foods) to elegant and adventuresome dining. The events fete a different winery each day and each winery is in friendly competition to outdo their neighbor. It’s a time of year, when you can arrive there, knowing no one and come home having made new best friends. The festivities lilt together with strains of jazz guitars to classical opera performances.

If you like olive oil, you've come to the right place. Along with grapes, the area is rich in ancient olive trees and fresh, cold-pressed, unfiltered, extra virgin olive oil that is so well priced, you'll want to get a case, from each winery.

Speaking of getting cases...important to know that as a visitor from California, you can only legally bring back 1.5 bottles of wine. No limit on olive oil. If you live in any other state or country than California, or bring an out of state buddy with you, you may bring in 5 cases of wine, per person! If you can figure that "law" out...well, write me immediately.

The hotels, B&B’s, inns, guest houses and winery overnight accommodations book well in advance. Standouts are: La Villa de la Valle and Adobe Guadalupe in Guadalupe Valley; Casa Natalie, Las Rosas Resort, Hotel Coral, all ocean front in Ensenada. If this festive atmosphere sounds appealing, be sure to book while you're reading this.

This will update, as the area is rumbling with activity and action. Count on me to keep you posted.

For more details, contact me.

Lodging in Guadalupe Valley:

http://www.lasbrisasdelvalle.com/

http://www.adobeguadalupe.com/

Lodging in Ensenada:

http://www.casanatalie.com/

http://www.lasrosas.com/

http://www.hotelcoral.com/

Info on the Fiesta de la Vendimia:

fiestasvendimia@hotmail.com

www.fiestasdelavendimia/baja.com